Up early at 4:30am we left the town of Rheinberg and headed for Arnhem in Holland. Aware it was going to rain we crossed our fingers and hoped for the best. From the start we had a terrible head wind and at about half way there just before we crossed the border it started to pour. With 50kms still to go we pushed on; strong winds, pouring rain, 2 ferry crossings and absolute confusion with the signs across the border. We made it despite the weather and complicated signage we were both so impressed. Bike lanes everywhere, bikes everywhere, lots of bars, good food and atmosphere. We like Holland (The Netherlands were the Dutch live (so confusing))!
Holland is a little wet. No wait it's a whole lot wet.
We passed a town called Rees (photo damaged by the rain) and a picture of Roos bicycle, kind of Dali if you ask me.
The Cycle the Rhine book we are following has obtuse instructions like turn right at the pink elephant.
We where correct in assuming he meant the soggy brown mammoth.
Enjoying the early start we said goodbye to Cologne and headed north along the Rhine. We passed through the lovely city of Dusseldorf and then as a complete contrast a terrible city, Duisburg, it showed a sobering look at a side of Germany we hadn't seen so far. We had planned to stop there for the night but it seemed run down and unsafe so we continued. Despite strong head winds it had been overcast all day so we were able to finish the 120kms (via the roundabout route) to Rheinberg.
While looking for somewhere to eat we stopped by a house with larger than life-size bottles of wine in the drive way. Busted by the owners who came out for a chat and the next thing we knew we were in their back yard doing an impromptu wine tasting of fabulous German vintages from the region. They owned a bottle shop in town and were such a lovely friendly couple, happy to discuss wine and hear about our crazy travels and adventures. One hour later we said goodbye with two bottles of wine in our hands. Normally we would be thrilled but when you're on your bike any weight is a hindrance particularly as we still had 2 left to drink from our trip in Alsace. Oh well, I can hear your hearts bleeding from here.
Note the labels, that may well be what caught Reuben's eye as we peddled past.
Seriously if you are ever in Rhineberg stop by here and enjoy great wine and great company!
Today we were up at 4:30am to do some serious riding after having been a little slack of late. We left Koblenz and headed for Cologne. It was so nice in the morning, little traffic, cool and quiet. Anne-Marie was having fun comparing the river cruises that we saw heading upstream, trying to convince Reuben that one day we too will join the oldies for an all inclusive cruise of the Rhine. We stopped at Bonn along the way and visited an awesome bike shop for pedal platforms and to fix Reuben's shifters after the crash the other day. We completed the 105km ride just after midday enjoying a yummy 'scampi' spaghetti lunch with of course, a couple of glasses of really good international wine. After Note: the place we had lunch was a pretty amazing restaurant Vintage, we seem to have a knack of choosing exceptional restaurants on a whim (look for white table cloths is Dennis Rewnsley's tip).
Anne Marie in front of the amazing cathedral in Koln.
Beer at the Hard Rock Cafe in Koln. Ozzy and Marilyn say Hi.
After getting to sleep at 7am today was a rest day. We woke around 2pm and spent the afternoon riding around Koblenz, taking it easy and trying our best to avoid the 36c weather.
Fort something or other over the river of something or other. Can you tell we are feeling pretty meh.
We had a lovely sleep in and a tasty breakfast at our German guest house, trying our best to keep things neat and in order as not to upset the funny German chef. We took the day easy as not to tire ourselves out for our 9pm music festival. Just a 40km ride from Sankt Goar to Koblenz. The festival, Nature One, was held in an old military bunker in the middle of what seemed like nowhere. The bus took an hour to drive us there from Koblenz and then it was a 45 min walk to the entrance but it was all worth it. The Germans certainly know how to party hard, lots and lots of atmosphere and energy. The sound was the loudest we had ever heard it.18 stages, about a third in concrete bunkers, the others spread around the site, some on top of hills, it was a maze full of military hardware. We had to be careful not to fall over or down one of the hills in the dark (we opted for low alcohol consumption to stay on the safe, alert side).The bunkers were about 5m across and about 40m deep, solid concrete walls, so so so very loud. The main stage set was so impressive. We had both never danced so hard, about 3am we were exhausted but pushed on until 5:30am when the first shuttle was heading back. Hard to believe people stayed until after 9am when the last DJs stopped playing.
About to depart at a healthy 9am
Anne-Marie showing off an enormous cuckoo clock (and bear by the original teddy bear makers).
Reuben is too busy taking pictures of castles and rides straight into a flower bed (who puts a random garden in the bike path anyway? I ask you (and then fills it with sharp volcanic gravel just for good measure)), bike lands on his head. Anne-Marie the ever dutiful and loving wife immediately whips out the camera to take plenty of photos prior to helping the poor injured husband with his numerous injuries. (seriously the 40kg bike landed on my head (remember all that wine we bought yesterday?)).
In the background is the wonderful castle I was taking pictures of (here washing my cuts out).
Nature one tickets YEAH (Dreamworks grin)
Dreamworks grin for reference LOL
Stepping between bunkers
Anne-Marie dancing with the light men
Reuben gets down in the black light
All smileys
Can you say Hardcore? Bam Bam BAM. Seroiusly back to '92 here I come!
Reuben was still feeling a little under the weather so we decided to take it easy. We slept in and then decided to catch a train and bypass some boring parts of the river. Only 200 kms, it can't take too long... 6 trains, 7 hours, a cancelled service and two late trains, it did. We found ourselves stranded at rural stations with strangers. Canceled trains make friends of travelers like little else can. Finally we made it to Bingen, Germany at 7pm and rode for 30 kms on what was one of the most beautiful sections of the Rhine river; castles, quaint villages and lots of outdoor beer festivals.
Anne-Marie showing of the bruises on her legs and the impressive space on some of the German trains for bikes
Having a couple of 2 euro champagnes during one of our unplanned 45 minute stopovers on our train journey.
Suddenly Art.
Finally ready to ride, off the train, there's castles in the background I promise.
Today we decided to skip riding and stay in picturesque Strasbourg for another day. Reuben was still a little weak but Anne-Marie convinced him an organised wine tour of the Alsace wine region would be a rest. She was wrong. We climbed up a castle in the 35 degree heat and spent an hour exploring. The castle was pretty amazing, well restored and military, no pretty princess fairy-tale abode but a proper defensible fortress in amazing condition that you could explore and enjoy. We then visited 3 towns for sightseeing and wine tasting. Once again much to our disgust we came away tipsy with another four glorious bottles to carry around in our panniers. By the end of it we were exhausted and had an awesome day although Reuben never got the rest day he was promised.
The view from our hotel room into the amazing old pub next door.
The Cathedral across from our hotel room. Amazing detail.
Lovely in the stairwell
And again
There's a dragon lick'n my head
Polearms! Halberds! Oh My.
Meet my little friend.
These crazy french people put flowers on everything.
Reuben with the wine maker of a fabulous Grand Cru Riesling we enjoyed.
